Golf Cape Breton Island, Nova Scotia, Canada
by Dave Finn as published in the July 2025 issue of Golf Central Magazine
“On the road again
Goin’ places that I’ve never been
Seein’ things that I may never see again
I can’t wait to get on the road again…”
Willy Nelson’s words reflect a rebellious time in my life in the 80s, when my wife and I took that suggestion literally and went “walkabout.” We boldly sold our house, quit our jobs and took our two children out of school to embark on a nine-month odyssey throughout Australia and the South Pacific, including six weeks in an RV motorhome exploring all of New Zealand.
First Night Camping on Bras d’Or Lake
Fast forward 35 years. We’re spending the evening at Ben Eoin Campground, twenty minutes south of Sydney (Nova Scotia, not Australia). Our bags are unpacked, the beverages are cold, the campfire’s lit and our toes are wiggling in the sandy shores of Bras d’Or Lake. It’s déjà vu, except this time I’m taking a five-day 250-mile golf Cape Breton Island trip in an RV with my son-in-law, who is also an avid golfer.
The Lakes Golf Club on Bras d’Or Lake
Come morning, we sauntered ten minutes down the road to play The Lakes Golf Club, which opened in 2010. Canadian Architect Graham Cooke designed this picturesque layout to nestle right alongside the Ski Eion hills. There is a mountain-like feeling to this course with its tree-lined fairways and numerous elevation changes. A great layout.
After our game, we drove three hours along the eastern portion of the Cabot Trail to Ingonish Beach. We were both taken aback by the sheer beauty of the Atlantic coast and pleasantly surprised at how well our two-ton behemoth handled the many curves and steep inclines.
Cape Breton Highlands National Park spans over 367 square miles and is home to an abundance of wildlife, as we soon discovered. At Cheticamp Campground, we got our first glimpse of a cow moose and her ‘small’ calf rustling in the bushes near our campfire. It was a bit unnerving but very cool!
Highlands Links
Our next stop is Highlands Links. Opened in 1941, this stately course has withstood the test of time. Designed by the legendary Canadian Architect Stanley Thompson, it stretches two and a half miles through hilly, forested land. It’s more than impressive, but don’t expect any level lies here. Consistently ranked among the top 100 Courses in the world, it was a privilege to play this historic gem.
Cabot Links 18th Hole
Playing Cabot Cape Breton is next, and I’m giddy with excitement as Golf Magazine ranks it in the Top 100 Golf Resorts in the World for 2024-25. As we head for the tiny hamlet of Inverness (Nova Scotia, not Scotland), the golf gods ‘bless’ us with a cool overcast day. It’s foggy, drizzly and rainy – ‘nasty’ weather by some standards, but it feels like we are ‘on the moors’.
Cabot Cliffs – 16th hole
The original Cabot Links opened in 2012 and is one man’s vision of “If you build it, they will come”. Here owner Ben Cowan-Dewar commissioned architect Rod Whitman to design Canada’s first authentic links course on the site of an old coal mining operation. He responded by creating a stunning 18-hole, par-70 layout featuring five holes playing directly along the coastline. Every other hole offers a view of the Gulf of St. Lawrence. As if that wasn’t challenging enough, there is fescue galore and huge greens that average over 45 yards deep. Now I know why this course is currently ranked #25 in the world by Golf Digest.
Cabot Cliffs – 18th hole
Sister course Cabot Cliffs was developed under the guidance of architects Bill Coore and Ben Crenshaw. It is currently ranked #13 in the world by Golf Digest and for good reason. It offers breathtaking panoramic views of the ocean with huge elevation changes and dramatic holes. Recently they opened an 11-hole short course, but I never got to play it.
If you have the time, I’d suggest you consider playing Bell Bay, Dundee and Le Portage, all worthy challenges along your route.
The Cabot Trail consistently exceeds visitors’ expectations, and Cape Breton has been rated #1 Island Destination in North America by Condé Nast Traveler readers and #1 Island in Canada for five years in a row by Travel + Leisure World’s Best Award. The Lonely Planet calls it “one of North America’s best road trips” with its winding roads, sweeping vistas, breathtaking views and tranquil beaches. Now, add in the heritage and hospitality of the Scottish, Irish, and French (Acadian) who settled here, and the road from Ingonish to Inverness becomes an amazing “golf trail” – bar none.
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